My pickney grew up!

Visiting Belize was like a homecoming: seeing my Belizean family, my Belizean home, and my former students. I was surprised to see that most things around the town had stayed the same. The stores, the restaurants, the city plaza, the tortilla factories, and even my old school hadn't changed very much. I felt like I had never left. 

However, my students, "my pickney," in the local Creole parlance, changed dramatically. So much so that I even had to ask a few of them who they were. They all looked so much older, wiser, and much more grown-up. 

When they came to visit, I caught myself doing double and triple takes, amazed at the young adults that they had become. These were the same children who sang and danced around my classroom; who recited the entire poem of Shel Silverstein's "Sick"; who played kickball with the passion only kids can have; who completely obliterated what I thought was an indestructible cockroach pinata; who hugged my waist so tight I couldn't move.

Now they are as tall as I am (if not a little bit taller).

Of my original class of 22, I got to see four of them during this trip. Unfortunately, three more came by after we had already left. 

Thank you Steven, Kimberley, Mareli, and Adreli for stopping by and finding me. Sorry I missed you Edgar, Cindy, and Jonathan. I'm so very proud of you and who you have become. Next time I'm in Belize we are having a class reunion. Maybe even with a cameo appearance of "Freddie."

Garifuna beats in Hopkins

About 14% of Belize's population is Garifuna, an ethnic group with Afican roots who predominantly dwell in the central-eastern district of Stann Creek - mostly in its capital, Dangriga (Garifuna people also live in Guatemala, Honduras, and Nicaragua). Their history is complex and often tragic, but the Garifuna people have persevered through the centuries - their culture, music, and dance, for example, were recently recognized by Unesco as a "Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity."

Just south of the Garifuna capital lies the small beach town of Hopkins, where Kate and I stayed for two nights with the Colemans. On one of those evenings, we encountered a group of Garifuna musicians playing at a nearby drumming center. Six percussionists, with drums, shakers, and turtle shells gave us a show and a short tour of their music.




As Kate and I learned, Garifuna drum beats also form the foundation of "Punta Rock," a popular, contemporary genre comprising a mix of fast beats (everything about Garifuna music is fast) and electric instruments. Andy Palacio, the Belizien artist of the lead-in music in this video, did much to broaden the appeal of this music across the globe. You can find out more about his sad yet inspiring story here.

Thanks to the folks at the drumming center for their hospitality and the long, entertaining hours of rhythm.

At home in Orange Walk

We have been gone a while - a month to be exact. Hence the radio silence on our blog. Our excuse: Belize.

We have many videos, photos, and thoughts to process before we can duly describe this beautifully diverse country. In the meantime, here's a short video of an average day at the Colemans' in Orange Walk, our gracious hosts and diligent guides through the weeks in Belize.